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๐ฎ๐น Part of our Italy Travel Guide
I came to Bologna after a few days in Modena โ checked out of Hotel Tiby late at noon, took a Radio Taxi to Modena Centrale, and caught the Trenitalia regional "Rock" train to Bologna Centrale. The ticket was booked online in advance; the journey takes around 20 minutes and costs under โฌ5. If you're doing a wider Emilia-Romagna circuit, this ModenaโBologna pair is one of the most efficient combos in northern Italy.
Bologna was not a quick stop for us. We stayed three nights in a central Airbnb, walked almost everywhere, and ate far too well. This is the honest itinerary โ prices, what was open, what wasn't, and the things that don't show up on the standard highlight reels.
Getting to Bologna
From Modena: Regional train from Modena Centrale to Bologna Centrale, ~20 min, tickets from โฌ3.50 booked online via Trenitalia. The "Rock" trains are comfortable double-deckers.
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From Milan: Frecciarossa high-speed train, ~1 hour, from โฌ10โ20 booked in advance.
From Florence: Frecciarossa, ~35 minutes. Bologna is genuinely well-connected โ it's a hub, not a detour.

Use our Travel Time Calculator to compare train vs drive time from wherever you're starting.
Where to Stay in Bologna
We stayed in a central Airbnb in the compound of Bologna Food Gallery, a few minutes' walk from Bologna Centrale station. The location was excellent โ Piazza Maggiore was a 10-minute walk, everything in the historic center reachable on foot without a single bus.
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Staying central in Bologna is worth paying for. The city is compact and the streets reward wandering; a 15-minute walk away costs you spontaneity.
Airbnb in the historic center is often better value than hotels here, especially during busy periods. Plenty of options within 5 minutes of the station.
Day 1: Arrival, Lunch, and an Evening in Piazza Maggiore
Arriving and Settling In
We arrived at Bologna Centrale mid-afternoon, dropped luggage at the Airbnb, and didn't waste time. First stop was lunch โ right at Bologna Food Gallery, which turned out to be directly in our building.
Lunch: Bologna Food Gallery
Bufala pizza, salad, lemon drink, and a latte โ โฌ46 for two people. Solid for a first meal in the city: good quality ingredients, relaxed atmosphere, central location. Not the cheapest option in Bologna but fair given the spot and the quality.
Evening: Piazza Maggiore + The Hidden Canal Window
After lunch we walked to Piazza Maggiore โ the heart of the city, anchored by the unfinished facade of San Petronio Basilica and the Neptune fountain. At dusk it shifts from tourist magnet to something more like a living room for the city. Worth arriving here in the early evening when the light hits the red brick.
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On the way back we stopped at the Finestrella di Via Piella โ a small window in a wall on Via Piella that looks down onto what was once a functioning canal with a view of old Bologna. It's become a popular Instagram spot. During our visit the canal was dried up, no water flowing, which happens in certain seasons โ still worth stopping for the architectural framing and to understand how the city once looked when its waterways were active.

We also picked up breakfast supplies from Conad (supermarket, easy to find near the center) and browsed the shops along the main streets โ H&M, Kiko Milano, and the usual European high street mix that lines the porticoes.
Dinner was at home, cooked in the Airbnb.
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Day 2: The Full Bologna Loop
Day 2 was the proper sightseeing day. We covered most of the historic center on foot.
Morning: Porticoes to Piazza Maggiore
Bologna's covered walkways โ the portici โ are UNESCO-listed and completely transform how the city feels to walk. We walked from the Airbnb to Piazza Maggiore through the covered lanes: no rain, no direct sun, just continuous shade and the rhythm of the arches overhead. If you've only experienced Bologna from photos, the porticoes are the thing that surprises you most in person.

Sala Borsa โ Free Underground Roman Forum
Sala Borsa is officially a public library inside a beautiful iron-and-glass hall on Piazza del Nettuno. Entry is free.
What most visitors miss: go downstairs.
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Beneath the library floor is an archaeological excavation area with visible Roman-era structures โ the old forum of Bononia, the Roman name for Bologna. You can walk through a preserved section of ancient paving, foundations, and walls. Free to enter; donations welcome. We saw other visitors throwing coins and notes into one of the old Roman forum areas โ not sure if that's an official thing or just spontaneous reverence, but it happens.
It's one of the most genuinely surprising free things in an Italian city. No queue, no ticket, just a library staircase and then suddenly you're standing in a Roman forum.
Sala Borsa Via Farini, 8 โ free entry, open TuesdayโSaturday
Lunch: ้ๅ้ฅญๅบ Cittร d'Oro (Chinese, Near the Station)
Before the afternoon sights, we stopped for lunch at ้ๅ้ฅญๅบ โ Cittร d'Oro, a Chinese restaurant a short walk from Bologna Centrale. It's not the obvious Bologna lunch choice but it was genuinely good โ and at โฌ20 for two people including cover charges, it was the best value meal of the trip.
We had:
- Fried noodles
- Rice cake noodles (nian gao style)
- Fried vegetable dumplings
- Drinks
Everything was well-made and portions were solid. Worth knowing if you want a break from Italian food mid-trip or are watching the budget. Find it on Google Maps.
Neptune Fountain
On the way between Sala Borsa and San Petronio, you pass the Fontana del Nettuno โ Giambologna's 16th-century bronze Neptune. It sits at the edge of Piazza del Nettuno and is routinely ignored by people walking fast to the basilica. Stop for a minute. The detail on it is exceptional.
San Petronio Basilica โ The Unfinished Church
Basilica di San Petronio is one of the largest churches in the world and one of the most architecturally unusual. The facade is permanently, deliberately unfinished โ white marble on the lower section, raw red brick above. After 600 years of stop-and-start construction, it became what it is: a monument to ambition, politics, and incomplete plans.
Inside it is vast, dim, and calm. Stroller-friendly โ wide aisles, flat floor, no steps inside. Free to enter; the museum and Cappella dei Magi have a small charge.

โฌ0 entry to the main basilica. Open daily.
Due Torri โ The Two Towers
Bologna's twin medieval towers โ Torre degli Asinelli (97m) and the leaning Torre Garisenda โ are the city's most recognizable landmark. We planned to climb Asinelli (โฌ5, 498 steps, exceptional views) but it was closed during our visit for maintenance or restoration works.

Worth checking the current status before you go: Torre degli Asinelli booking. If it's open, climb it. If not, the square at the base is still worth standing in โ looking up at two medieval towers that have stood since the 12th century doesn't get old.
Gelato at Venchi
After the towers we walked to Venchi for gelato. Venchi is not a local hole-in-the-wall; it's a historic Italian chocolate and gelato brand founded in 1878. The quality is consistently excellent โ proper gelato, good flavors, no artificial coloring theatrics. Fair prices for the quality.

There are multiple Venchi locations across Italy. In Bologna the one near the historic center is worth stopping at.
Evening: Gran Reno Mall (Primark)
In the evening we took the train from Bologna Centrale to Casalecchio di Reno โ a short ride โ and walked to Centro Commerciale Gran Reno, which has a large Primark. Good for picking up basics, travel layers, kids' clothing, and anything you forgot to pack. The mall itself is modern, well-maintained, and a pleasant contrast to a day spent in medieval architecture.
This is not a must-do for everyone, but if you need a practical shopping stop, Gran Reno covers it efficiently without requiring a trip to a bigger city.
Day 3: Checkout and Onward to Milan
Day 3 was a transit day. We checked out of the Airbnb, walked to Bologna Centrale, and caught the train to Milan.
Bologna to Milan: Frecciarossa high-speed, ~1 hour. Book in advance on Trenitalia for the best prices.
In Milan we dropped our luggage at a pre-booked Bounce location โ Bounce is a luggage storage network with spots in train stations, shops, and hotels across Europe. Rates are typically โฌ5โ8 per bag per day. Worth pre-booking online before you arrive, especially at busy stations where walk-in options fill up.

With bags stored, we had the rest of the afternoon free to explore Milan before checking into accommodation.
Practical Bologna Tips
Getting around: Walk everywhere in the historic center. The city is flat, the porticoes protect you from rain and sun, and most of the main sights are within 15 minutes of each other on foot.
Train connections: Bologna is exceptionally well-connected. Modena (20 min), Florence (35 min), Milan (1 hr), Venice (1.5 hr) โ it works as a base for multi-city trips. Use our Travel Distance Calculator to check road distances if you're considering driving.
Budget for food: Expect โฌ20โ25 per person per meal at a sit-down restaurant. Street food and mercato options are cheaper. Bologna Food Gallery is mid-range and reliable. The Quadrilatero market district (off Piazza Maggiore) has the best deli options for self-catering.
What to pre-book: Torre degli Asinelli if you plan to climb it (check availability โ it was closed during our visit). Bounce luggage storage if you're doing a transit day. Accommodation in the center.
Conad supermarket: Good for breakfast supplies, snacks, wine. There are a few branches walkable from the center.
Free things that are actually good:
- Sala Borsa library + underground Roman forum
- Basilica di San Petronio
- Piazza Maggiore at any time of day
- Finestrella di Via Piella (check if the canal has water โ seasonal)
- Walking the porticoes
Bologna 3-Day Cost Estimate (2 People)
| Item | Cost |
|---|---|
| Train Modena โ Bologna (2 people) | ~โฌ8 |
| Airbnb (2 nights, central) | โฌ120โ180 |
| Lunch at Bologna Food Gallery | โฌ46 |
| Groceries (Conad, 2 days breakfast + dinner) | ~โฌ25 |
| Lunch at ้ๅ้ฅญๅบ Cittร d'Oro | โฌ20 |
| Venchi gelato (2) | ~โฌ8 |
| Gran Reno / shopping | varies |
| Train to Milan (2 people) | ~โฌ20โ40 |
| Bounce luggage storage Milan | ~โฌ10โ16 |
Bologna is one of the more affordable major Italian cities. Accommodation is cheaper than Florence or Venice, food is outstanding, and the free attractions list is long.
Related Guides
- Things to Do in Bologna โ deeper attraction breakdown with entry prices and opening hours
- Italy Travel Guide
- Travel Time Calculator โ compare train vs drive times between Italian cities
- Road Trip Cost Calculator โ if you're doing Emilia-Romagna by car
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